DONATELLA VERSACE was clearly not paying attention to the economical climate of her home country this evening as she presented her third couture collection back on the runway since 2004 – the house officially made a return to the couture schedule last January, having previously opted to show its atelier collections via intimate presentations or create looks especially for the red carpet. This was a full-blown Versace fest, taking all the traditional Versace ingredients – sequins, bling and neon – and wrapping it up in lashings of gold, a dash of the Eighties (via huge shoulders, often in fur) to make quite the “powerful statement”, as Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman summed up after the show.
When it came to the make-up, Versace’s femmes led the way in very beautiful smoky green shades on the eyes which were made to look like butterfly wings and shown off to full effect by slicked-back hair – that pretty versus punk juxtaposition at work again.
To close the show – and further cement its powerful statement – was Stella Tennant: three neon yellow discs circling her neck, beneath them a cascade of fluoro yellow and a hem of shimmering, sheer silver mosaic. It was great to see Donatella in the full Versace swing of things once again.